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RV Kitchen Appliances
Must Have List vs. Wish List
Equates to: 30 Amps vs. 50 Amps
How much electrical power is needed for those small appliances planned for your RV kitchen?
- Make two lists – Label one ‘Must Have’ and the other ‘Wish’ list. Coffee pot, crockpot, electric skillet, hand mixer, toaster – you’ll find these lists will add up quickly.
- Things to know – There are two measurements of power for RVs.
– 30 amps delivers 3600 watts of power
– 50 amps delivers 12,000 watts of power
3. Located on the back of each appliance is an electrical data plate. This information is telling us of the amount of power (electricity) required.
4. To measure the complete electrical requirement need’s for an RV – we will allocate watts for one air conditioner (2400 watts on startup) and the water heater element (1500 watts). Both of these appliances will cycle on and off which means the demand on the watts are not constant. Watts total – 3900.
When adding the watts needed from our lists, the 3600 watts of power given by a 30 amp power cord is depleted, even before getting started.
Ask yourself – What is my lifestyle? A minimalist will require less and the 30 amps could be sufficient. Are the ‘must have’ and ‘wish’ lists vital to you? 50 amps power is probably the way to go.
Your perfect RV kitchen should be able to handle the electrical power needs of your small appliance ‘must haves’ and ‘wish’ lists, so shop wise.
As I reflect on all the questions that we were asked during our seminars – the Absorption RV Refrigerator is still the number one topic of all. So, I thought I would provide more information on how to help this appliance work more efficiently with providing some great facts that you may not be aware of.
- · Compressor vs. Absorption type refrigerators – there is a big different. The compressor (residential-type) is an electric motor with a refrigerant pump, whereas, absorption (RV) is done through chemicals and heat.
- · Recovery time is vastly different from our residential units. For every minute the door is left open – it will take one hour to recover the cold air lost.
- · RV refrigerators cool better when there are a fair amount of items being stored. However, over packing is a bad thing – temps will go up because of lack of airflow. Try to keep your refrigerator stocked well without over packing.
- · For cooling properly these 3 things are needed: Is it level? Is there proper ventilation? Do you have a heat source ( i.e. propane or electric)?
- · It is not critical to have the refrigerator level while traveling. The rolling and pitching movement of the RV helps the refrigerator operate efficiently.
- · To check for proper temperature, place a cup of water with a thermometer inside the cup. Wait 2 to 3 hours to check if the unit is already cooled down. If hot (unplugged), turn on and wait to check after 8 to 24 hours.
- · Most refrigerators will have at least one auxiliary fan on the back side, check to make sure it is working properly. If more air flow is needed – add an additional fan(s).
- · If the odor of ammonia is present with a yellow film coating on the back side of the refrigerator, the cooling coil seal is broken. This means the coils will need to be replaced.
- · 8 cubic foot and larger units should be at least 43 degrees F. or less at 110 degrees F.
- · Proper temperature for the freezer is 0 degrees F. and inside the main cooling box is 37 – 42 degrees F.
- · Place ice cream at the coldest part of the freezer which is the lower left side.
I do hope you now have a better understanding of the Absorption RV Refrigerator. Happy RVing!